(For this post were not used in sun our pictures but also those of other participants in the Motogiro, and we thank them again for coming with us.)
We apologize in advance with our "4 cats" loyal readers for the incredible number of images we used in this post.
Put yourself in our shoes ... how do you give up in these photos? ... and then we were in 10 and it is right that everyone can see each other again in this epic (and ethyl) bike ride!
May 30, 2010
this day would already understand it was wonderful to wake up.
Our rooms all have a terrace that looks straight on the sea, sea yesterday that we have not seen covered with dark clouds that presage the cold and rain ... but ...
Instead of clear skies and see as far touch the bottom of the Gulf of Arbatax, the sun is warm, the gardens around the hotel Villa Selene smell, and there is an unexpected peace.
Quick, nimble, and we dress, very pragmatically, we are going to test what we offer Villa Selene as breakfast.
could not be better: the classic breakfast buffet (sweet and savory) are flanked by small freshly made cream puffs filled with fresh cream, yogurt, hand made, warm crepes with jam, will be useful for the following morning!
fed, we are under the porch, some information on the course of the day and how to walk. From Lanusei we go down through the SS 198 until the "hook" on the SS 125 Tortoli, the way we do today.
We check the map, we set the first step in the step of Genna Sila, so everyone is free to keep the pace they prefer.
First, a good tank of gas to the distributor who is a few meters from the hotel and down to the sea.
Finally we go.
Lanusei Ilbono, Tortoli .... nearly 20 miles of road that twists on itself, down to the sea, the forest above us, around so many other bikes.
on Tortola, and was even now, we get on the SS125, the Orientale Sarda.
His career ranges from Cagliari to Olbia, the alternation of mountains and plains, curves and as always ... but not all motorcyclists are, for this reason, in recent years has been built a highway that would replace and which seek to channel traffic signs ... but we're slowly, looking for the concentration and the right way to avoid this "new" SS 125.
overcome a town called Sunflower (one of those places and tourist hybrid, full of crossings) ...
... Lotzorai free reach, in the middle of traffic "tourist" ...
triumphant ... and we enter into this beautiful road-right at one of the traits that have not yet been redesigned.
The section we are going to take it from Lotzorai Dorgali. Go inside the
Gennargentu along the coast of the Gulf of Orosei, just to give some reference "known" is the area of \u200b\u200bBue Marino, Cala Cala Luna Sisine to Cala Gonone.
So much for lovers of beautiful scenery and spectacular nature .... ... for us bikers. the 125 is the true spectacle!
Baunei We heat the tires up to where he starts dancing ... .. about 50 km without countries, almost without homes, almost without cars.
And just dance it is ... The Bride wants its part, wants to be able to relax and enjoy to the edge of the tires virtually new.
And then we go ... in the third, taking advantage of engine braking.
first glancing at the mirror to check my friends ...
... but you can not resist, too many curves.
Soon I hear a motion that follows me around and wanted to play ... ok! Like a waltz? some more 'gas, The Bride responds with the taste and strength.
Let's go, me and Mark, with their bikes on the climb to Passo Genna Silana where there fermiamo e aspettiamo gli amici.
Ma Federica e Massimo, Valeria e Giancarlo, Jonny e Giuliana, AxelT…. sono tutti li, subito dietro!
Altro che aspettare!
Le curve pulite, l’asfalto grippante, le macchine che qui sembrano anacronistiche, giusto qualche maiale selvatico o qualche mucca per una scossetta di adrenalina… ditelo che avete disegnato questa strada per le due ruote!
Genna Silana è un posto incredibile, perso nel nulla… a metà strada tra Baunei e Dorgali.
Pausa pipi, acqua, caffè, foto… cerchiamo di abbattere un poco l’adrenalina contando le capre…
… i motociclisti tutto intorno non si contano, sembriamo tante lumache dopo un giorno di pioggia.
Foto ricordo e si riparte, ci aspetta ancora un po’ di strada prima di arrivare all’appuntamento di pranzo.
Ma prima del pranzo… e prima di Dorgali c’è ancora il serpentone che scende lungo il costone che protegge Cala Gonone ad Ovest.
A series of curves that seem to have no end (and there are only 20 kilometers) on a road very narrow and at times where say that a bike like the Bride suffers ... maddechè!
The Bride enjoys like crazy, Anna and I with her too, but a bit 'less I confess ... after he had a little' fear, but she liked it so much that it was quiet!
Oh well ... good things come to an end and since we can not turn the bike and start again, at the junction of Cala Gonone to unite the group and begin a move to Orgosolo where we wait for lunch, and we are already late.
Small break the rock painting before dell’ingresso al paese.
Foto foto e ancora foto, per dire c’eravamo anche noi qui, non è un’invenzione questo posto e infine chiamiamo Tonino e ci diamo un appuntamento.
Tonino Ferrari è una vera rivelazione!
Tonino è come mamma chioccia con i pulcini… era già preoccupato, aveva già provato a chiamarci, arriva subito all’appuntamento e ci conquista.
Ha una faccia piaciona ma furbissima con dei modi semplici anche se pieni di orgoglio Sardo.
Sfoggia una maglietta rossa (dobbiamo convincerlo a mandarcene una!) un His hymn Orgosolo and is already a well of information.
It puts us in a row, the count is, we're all here?
We all, including some undercover in the machine (the cat's mother, Cecilia and her niece Manuela's friend) who have not had to miss the opportunity. A dinner in
Supramonte is not something everyday!
Orgosolo few miles out of a side street and enter the woods. The place where we are is called "On laheddu" and we are both nominated in the "Supramonte" ... we do maybe 150 meters of dirt road easy access and reach a space where to park the bike.
150 meters and we are already in a dense forest: oak, holm oak, juniper and yew.
time to take off his helmet and we are gripped by the smell of roast suckling pig ... I realize that I'm hungry!
Tonino reach friends who are helping him to prepare this dinner and show that ... .... a flat-spotted pig on a spit ...
... a simmering cauldron where something unidentified ...
and more ... bread carrasau , the famous bread pintau "or" painted ", an esplanade of flour and lard" signed "with ancient symbols and designs, I see cheese, ricotta salata ... .
Ok, while I sit up and get ready to do my duty ...
is not left alone, having sniffed, photographed and friends reach me drool and start the hard work (mandibles) ...
Ci sediamo tutti in cerchio su sedili di granito, i nostri ospiti si affaccendano dal fuoco ad un tavolone centrale (anche quello di granito) portando tutto il ben di dio che ci serviranno.
Il piatto è un semplice contenitore in legno di forma rettangolare che si chiama “ lahedda ”, in teoria non dovrebbero esserci le posate, ma per noi “cittadini” viene fatta un’eccezione, i bicchieri sono in terracotta.
Miciapallina vorrebbe portarsi via tutto…. per fortuna non c’è spazio nel bauletto!
Un antipastino “leggero” di soli salumi e formaggi con questo pane “dipinto”, un primo giro di cannonau, anche un secondo e arriva il pentolone… pecora in cappotto!!!
Che si può dire della pecora in cappotto?
Buona è dir poco…. in fondo è “solo” pecora lessata con patate e cipolle…. ma ho visto più di uno servirsi due, tre volte di carne e poi di cipolle e patate… anzi… se ci fossero state ancora cipolle….
E poi… è arrivato lui, l’ospite d’onore….
The apotheosis for the taste buds ... immersed up to the elbows in the flat where we are, throwing behind the bones and scraps of food because wild boars are then to eat them, they explain, miracles of balance to keep the glass in one hand, in the bread, with other fish meat in the pot ... what ... we laugh and drink and eat ... and Toni and his "cronies" continue to lead and make up and almost take offense if we finish everything!
What true taste! In the midst of
a forest, with the bikes parked just steps away from us, every time a cow, a goat .... a wild pig grazing near us!
Someone is lying in panciolle and mentions a nap!
someone chat with our guests, others are scattered through the forest to look for a corner ... to pee 'attention to the boar "!
satisfied, very satisfied, with more time we dedicate ourselves to cakes, light and delicate as only the Sardinian sweets can be ... especially if washed down with "s'abbardente" provided by the family of Toni, and indeed the bread, made by his sister, and wine, a DOC cannonau done in the basement "Vinz 'and true' a ' other sister ... it stings vagueness in Sardinia that the family is still strongly felt!
At the end of roll to the granite table in the middle of the clearing for the usual photos ... a short, too short nap .... someone suggested a trip to see the murals in Orgosolo .... ok, ok ... let's go!
We go into town following Tonino and his friend, Giovanni Luigi, we open a wooden door and they accommodate the bikes in a little courtyard where before there was a gathering of vintage bikes ... bikes safely, helmets on motorcycles and on foot via a duty coffee ...
... and then to photograph the murals. Together with us
Toni and John Louis, hosts, we speak of Orgosolo, its history between the myths and realities and Murals ... beautiful, too many for a Oretta walk up and down the main road. Too many
especially for the deeper meaning they have and that goes beyond the mere documentation of the events to which they relate, meaning that should be studied further.
Time is limited, we should include, but Toni and John Louis that we obviously took a liking, they suggest we go to see a little thing on the road that goes to Lanusei: Tomb of the Giants a !
We can not say no?
So we're back on our bikes and go, following the machinery of our guides ...
... Orgosolo plateau that leads south, on a street unknown ( then discover that it is the SP2 ), taking on the left, the new SS389, the same that we have come yesterday ...
And then, just before reaching the pass runs Boi ( that unfortunately we will not do, because now the old SS 389 is no longer serviced by Anas and is invaded by cows and wild pigs ) we stop. In
nothing.
On foot we get closer to the ruins of a Tomb of the Giants, not reported, little studied, as too much of the wealth of Sardinia, but well-preserved ... hidden by a meadow of Asphodel.
Toni and John Louis there are the guides seem to be two professional archaeologists and explain all the various theories on the graves, on nuraghi ... but are not the same that we have cooked and served the pork ??
Oh yes ... this is just one of many surprises that hides the people ... Sardinian shepherds and villagers, educated and passionate of their culture, hospitable and harsh, with the taste to offer their knowledge and love that lead to their land! !
We ask questions, scattered all around us, we are voyeurs to two poor ladybugs that were their own way ...
is all ... a little 'magic or is it just as much food and excellent wine?
Finally, let Toni and John Louis very reluctantly with the promise to return soon to find them, not for the pig but for the pleasure of seeing them.
We held a luncheon in supramonte, we paid for that and we knew we could count on good food and good organization, but we did not know and that we found some generous friends, people proud of their culture and are ready to offer me.
And that is priceless.
To dampen the calm that this visit has given us, returning to Lanusei, we decided to take a piece of the old SS 389, which we re-established after the passage of Correboi ( after the pass, for obvious reasons muccheschi those above ! ).
few more cheerful turn, the view that yesterday we had persi….
… una sosta a Lanusei per rifare il pieno ed essere pronti domani mattina, qualcuno (un Marco a caso) decide che la strada è troppo bella e farà un salto a mostrare il mare alla sua moto.
Ci si vedrà più tardi in albergo.
Albergo , riposino, aperitivo e… cena, che ci avevano promesso leggera… infatti abbiamo gustato dell’ottimo pesce, di mare e appena pescato, che son cose che fanno la differenza.
Fregola con le arselle ( faremo fare un post solo per la fregola, miciapallina ha carpito la ricetta e se la tiene stretta! ) fresh grilled fish and a great pudding!
All washed down with plenty of liquor classic Sardinian myrtle.
Dearest Mrs. Esther, we never tire of your kitchen!
We do not have two stomachs!
Force, to bed!
Today we drove about 159 miles, and tomorrow we will have a significant stage of transfer.
"only" 110 km with estimated driving time of 3 hours, excluding breaks!
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Here map the course of our second day of travel and other useful information
Hotel Villa Selene
Contact Ms Ester (0782.42471)
http://www. hotelvillaselene.net
email: villaselene@libero.it
Association "The Sardinian suckling pig"
Contact Toni Ferrari (328. 2712068)
http://maialettosardo.com/
email: tonino.ferrari.fekk @ alice.it
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